Sharing this helpful visual guide to bezels from @lucywalkerjewellery - “There's no denying it's easier to set thinner gauge bezels, however how thick you choose is entirely up to you, the thickest bezel I ever set was using 1.3mm sterling silver sheet (that was a brutal job to set).

For smaller stones 28 gauge (0.33mm) wire can work perfectly, but for chunkier monkey's you might want a sturdier looking bezel, and so may choose to go with 22 gauge (0.64mm) or 18 gauge (1.02mm) However generally speaking the heavier the bezels will need to be set using different tools / techniques than those used for setting thinner bezels.

When using thinner bezel wire such as 28 gauge (0.33mm), setting the stone is a relatively simple procedure. Because the metal is already exceptionally thin there is no need to cut a chamfer around the edge of the setting, and the bezel can be pushed over the stone using a bezel rocker or a burnisher.

Setting heavier bezels does require quite a bit more effort to set the stone. For this reason, I'll use a hammer and punch or a hammer handpiece to set heavier bezels. It is possible in some cases to use a rocker to set with, but because of the pressure required, the risk of slipping, and smashing the crap out of your hand as you do so is REAL! The Foredom hammer handpiece is always a winner for me.” Great advice! I love thicker bezels in my own work and I do hammer set them. Thank you Lucy for allowing me to share!! #bezelsettings #howtomakejewelry #settingstones #jewelrymakingtips